A good number of fighters play the wait and see game, filling their spot in the line, but waiting for someone else to break the stalemate. It is a very defensive mindset that can work in some situations, like while defending a bridge or other choke point. The problem is what happens when the enemy breaks the stalemate. When that happens a vast majority of the sport wants to back up, letting their line get pushed back. There are definitely times when that is okay, but why let them dictate the tempo of the fight?
Before I go too far and forget to mention it, remember that aggression isn't blindly flinging yourself at the enemy in hopes of scoring a hit. There are times when a well placed rush can have great effect, but trading your life for a small chance to take a limb or piece of armor isn't a good trade for your team. Diving into a group of enemies has a low chance to succeed, especially without armor and support. If you feel the need to just go in, try to look for a gap, rather than going strait up the middle.
Aggressive fighting can be as much about forcing the enemy to consider you as a threat as it can be about rushing. In considering the range game, we see that fighters will add some margin of error to how they perceive your range, including how far you might lunge or step. Top tier fighters will allow just enough margin to let them react to your aggression, but newer fighters will underestimate the range. Once you have entered this zone, they are forced to pay attention, at least to divert some from whoever they may have been fighting.
This notion of threat range means a single fighter might be able to support more than one person merely through their presence by being a threat to multiple enemies. In the case of equal numbers, a skilled fighter might choose to take on a little extra risk, from the person across from them, in order to apply extra pressure on a second enemy. With some luck, the extra pressure might allow an ally to rush in with a little extra safety.
As far as targets go, often spears become a target that has to be rushed or allowed a wide berth. The key to rushing a spear is timing. The two main openings left to you are either while in the process of deflecting a stab, or as soon as they have switched to a different target. Ideally, the spear will be between you and the shieldman guarding it. Remember, though, to keep your guard as you rush. You may need to swing at the guard first, before engaging the spear directly. The goal being, at the minimum, keeping their weapon at bay until you can hit the spear user.
One advantage you will find in being the aggressor is that many fighters will lock up when rushed. While they might maintain their guard or rotate to counter you, many of them will fail to move their feet. This is especially true if you change direction mid-rush. I'll look at offensive footwork in more depth on a later post, but for now just remember to play the angles.
Sometimes, all it takes is a gentle (or not so much) reminder from one of our allies to get us to spring to action. As the new school year approaches, I'm reminded of all the times I've heard "swing, swing, swing!" yelled as some form of encouragement to new fighters. All too often, it seems, even us veteran fighters might need to remember that very thing.
Showing posts with label Footwork. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Footwork. Show all posts
Friday, August 1, 2014
Thursday, July 17, 2014
Theory Thursday: Range Game and Support Weapons
I talked about range last week from the perspective of a typical sword and board fighter. This week, I thought it was appropriate to look at support weapons and how they play the range game.
Because of the extra reach, glaives, spears and most other red swords have very favorable advantages in the range game. However, most of them suffer at close range. Even skilled fighters only have a few options at close quarters, especially with longer weapons.
The extra range increments for a support weapon somewhat overlap with the breakdown from last week, with the following additional considerations:
1. One handed range. The maximum reach of a weapon is when it is held with one hand.
2. Two handed range. This varies with the distance between hands. If the hands are right next to each other, it is still shorter range than one handed range.
3. Short range. When the opponent is inside the typical range that the haft padding would be in a normal stance, requires changing angles to hit safely.
4. Close range. When you can no longer effectively use the weapon because your opponent is too close.
Therefore, it is the support weapon's goal to keep their opponent outside of close range, or kill them before they get there. This leads many newer users to always attack at maximum range, to try buying themselves time to get a second attack in before being inside their opponent's range. This can work, but isn't always as favorable as it seems.
Attacking at full extension also means your recovery has to start at full extension. This means more time recovering the shot, rather than attacking or blocking. Larger weapons make this even more of a hindrance. Common practice for experienced fighters is to wait at the fringes of a support weapon's range, then rush when the shot is dodged or misses. This is very visible when looking at spears and glaives doing single handed stabs at a target standing just at the very edge of maximum range.
Of course, there are a few tricks support weapons can pull off that are harder to do with a smaller weapon. It is harder to predict the range of a longer weapon, at least the margin of error is higher. That means they can catch someone off guard who thinks they are safe. It can be extremely effective to try to deceive ones range by changing grips, stance, or shifting your weight. Use these factors to start with shorter ranged attacks, then switch to increase range when the opponent feels safe. With a long enough weapon, one can also get away with taking a step towards the target, assuming the step doesn't have the drawback of bringing them within range of their opponent.
A note on safety is due here. Gripping a two handed with your hands close together near the pommel increases range, but drastically reduces control. There are very few times it is worth the risk for a few extra inches of reach. Also, because your hands are so close, you will lose leverage and slow the speed you can return to guard. Avoid throwing this type of shot unless it is a fairly static target with the lowest risk of hitting someone's face. Leg sweeps can work here, because it is fairly safe to the target. Some extra control can be gained by moving the upper hand during the swing, giving you some margin to correct the final direction of the blow if the target moves. The same words of wisdom apply to one handed strikes, using the second hand as long as possible to help keep the strike on target and removing it as that arm reaches maximum extension.
During a field battle, range control is much easier, using your own position relative to your line to dictate how close an opponent can get safely. In one on one fighting, it requires much more work. If you are using a longer weapon like a spear or glaive, your opponent is going to want to rush you. You have to use footwork in order to create openings and shut down angles that they might attack from, remembering that range depends on the distance from your shoulders to the target zone. As such, and short/close range, you have to actually get your shoulders farther from the target to hit with a large weapon, especially if only a small portion is striking surface, in the case of glaives and spears. This also causes your upper body to be farther from your opponent's attacks.
To do this, you either have to step, lean, or change your angle of attack. Stepping away from the opponent's sword arm greatly increases the range advantage, and can give you a better angle to counter their attacks, especially if they originally threw a wide shot or wrap. Shifting your weight away from them moves your shoulders back, giving you around half the distance between your feet in extra range to play with. These two combined can make for a considerable change in range and angles.
Changing the angle of attack is more about shot selection than the range game, but I'll point out a couple of things about it. Normally, the distance from shoulder to target is the primary focus of the range game. However, at closer range, a wider shot selection opens up from wrap shots and extreme high crosses. You are now attacking based on where your hands are, using your arms to change the angle of attack, and thereby changing the distance between your hand and target. For example, with a minimum sized two handed sword, raising your arms above your head and throwing a cross shot to the opponents arm can be done at very close range, even more so if one leans to the side.
Another option when inside the short/close range is to choke up on the weapon, to an extreme amount in some cases. This brings your strike zone back within range without moving yourself. With a glaive, you can hit safely at nearly point blank by holding near the striking surface with one hand and near the middle with the other. Spears are slightly more difficult, but you can place good stabs up close by moving your front hand closer to the tip.
Because of the extra reach, glaives, spears and most other red swords have very favorable advantages in the range game. However, most of them suffer at close range. Even skilled fighters only have a few options at close quarters, especially with longer weapons.
The extra range increments for a support weapon somewhat overlap with the breakdown from last week, with the following additional considerations:
1. One handed range. The maximum reach of a weapon is when it is held with one hand.
2. Two handed range. This varies with the distance between hands. If the hands are right next to each other, it is still shorter range than one handed range.
3. Short range. When the opponent is inside the typical range that the haft padding would be in a normal stance, requires changing angles to hit safely.
4. Close range. When you can no longer effectively use the weapon because your opponent is too close.
 |
| The ghosted image shows roughly where my glaive might end up if I were to rotate my shoulders into a one handed stab. There is also more overlap between one handed and two handed that depends on hand position. The overlapping zone is roughly the same size as the distance between my hands. Original Photo by Ellie Apland |
Therefore, it is the support weapon's goal to keep their opponent outside of close range, or kill them before they get there. This leads many newer users to always attack at maximum range, to try buying themselves time to get a second attack in before being inside their opponent's range. This can work, but isn't always as favorable as it seems.
Attacking at full extension also means your recovery has to start at full extension. This means more time recovering the shot, rather than attacking or blocking. Larger weapons make this even more of a hindrance. Common practice for experienced fighters is to wait at the fringes of a support weapon's range, then rush when the shot is dodged or misses. This is very visible when looking at spears and glaives doing single handed stabs at a target standing just at the very edge of maximum range.
Of course, there are a few tricks support weapons can pull off that are harder to do with a smaller weapon. It is harder to predict the range of a longer weapon, at least the margin of error is higher. That means they can catch someone off guard who thinks they are safe. It can be extremely effective to try to deceive ones range by changing grips, stance, or shifting your weight. Use these factors to start with shorter ranged attacks, then switch to increase range when the opponent feels safe. With a long enough weapon, one can also get away with taking a step towards the target, assuming the step doesn't have the drawback of bringing them within range of their opponent.
A note on safety is due here. Gripping a two handed with your hands close together near the pommel increases range, but drastically reduces control. There are very few times it is worth the risk for a few extra inches of reach. Also, because your hands are so close, you will lose leverage and slow the speed you can return to guard. Avoid throwing this type of shot unless it is a fairly static target with the lowest risk of hitting someone's face. Leg sweeps can work here, because it is fairly safe to the target. Some extra control can be gained by moving the upper hand during the swing, giving you some margin to correct the final direction of the blow if the target moves. The same words of wisdom apply to one handed strikes, using the second hand as long as possible to help keep the strike on target and removing it as that arm reaches maximum extension.
During a field battle, range control is much easier, using your own position relative to your line to dictate how close an opponent can get safely. In one on one fighting, it requires much more work. If you are using a longer weapon like a spear or glaive, your opponent is going to want to rush you. You have to use footwork in order to create openings and shut down angles that they might attack from, remembering that range depends on the distance from your shoulders to the target zone. As such, and short/close range, you have to actually get your shoulders farther from the target to hit with a large weapon, especially if only a small portion is striking surface, in the case of glaives and spears. This also causes your upper body to be farther from your opponent's attacks.
To do this, you either have to step, lean, or change your angle of attack. Stepping away from the opponent's sword arm greatly increases the range advantage, and can give you a better angle to counter their attacks, especially if they originally threw a wide shot or wrap. Shifting your weight away from them moves your shoulders back, giving you around half the distance between your feet in extra range to play with. These two combined can make for a considerable change in range and angles.
Changing the angle of attack is more about shot selection than the range game, but I'll point out a couple of things about it. Normally, the distance from shoulder to target is the primary focus of the range game. However, at closer range, a wider shot selection opens up from wrap shots and extreme high crosses. You are now attacking based on where your hands are, using your arms to change the angle of attack, and thereby changing the distance between your hand and target. For example, with a minimum sized two handed sword, raising your arms above your head and throwing a cross shot to the opponents arm can be done at very close range, even more so if one leans to the side.
Another option when inside the short/close range is to choke up on the weapon, to an extreme amount in some cases. This brings your strike zone back within range without moving yourself. With a glaive, you can hit safely at nearly point blank by holding near the striking surface with one hand and near the middle with the other. Spears are slightly more difficult, but you can place good stabs up close by moving your front hand closer to the tip.
Thursday, July 10, 2014
Theory Thursday: Range Game Basics
I've talked a little bit about the range game here and there, but I haven't really broken it down. Sir Kenneth has a great write up, but it is buried deep in the dark abyss of the Bel boards. If I can find a link, I'll put it here.
Lets start with the basics, your range. Your own range will eventually be second nature to you, especially after using the same weapon for a long time. However, a few key points:
1. Your maximum range is when your arm is at full extension parallel to the ground
2. You can increase your range by moving your center of mass towards the target. This includes lowering it for legs shots.
3. The position of your shoulders affects range. In line with the target brings you closer. Squared up loses range.
4. Footwork is vital to controlling range. Stepping towards the target during a swing adds a substantial amount of range.
With a static target (guinea pig), from your normal stance, hold your weapon strait out towards them. Step forward until you can just barely touch. Now point your sword down towards the leg. No where close to being in range. Now bend your knees, shift your weight forward, and twist your shoulder towards the leg. Notice how much extra range you just gained, without even stepping in.
Once we know are own effective range, lets look at our opponent. Start with the target's torso just out of reach with your weapon extended. Now have them do the same. Notice
that either of you are in range of each other's arm. This should be a good reminder of how your opponent's range changes based on what targets you present. Also illustrates the danger inherent in swinging at targets outside of your range.
Now of course, weapon choices vary greatly from person to person and place to place. You and your opponent might have a drastic difference in range. Lets look at the ranges each of you can be at:
1. Both out of range and safe by a few steps. (like the maneuver phase of a line fight)
2. Long range: neither are in range, but two steps gets you in target.
3. Mid-long range: easily within a step of being in range, both are now at risk of being rushed. (stalemate phase of a line battle)
4a. Mid Range: You have a longer reach and are the only one that can strike.
4b. Mid range: your opponent has a longer reach and is the only one that can strike.
5. Short range: Both are in range to swing freely.
6. Too close: both are so close that neither can swing effectively. (maybe wrap shots)
There are a couple more, but they are specific to polearms and other large weapons, more on that later. As we can see, 4b is a terrible place to be. Spot 5 can be pretty rough too, especially against a skilled opponent. Foot work must be used to get yourself out of bad spots and into a more favorable position. In the case of 4b, you have to move through the range to strike, or constantly move back.
I'll talk a little more about moving in and out of range in a future post, but this is largely the foundation I learned as a new guy. It is at least a good place to start if you haven't considered much about range before. If nothing else, Kenny would be happy to teach you through negative reinforcement using his longsword.
Lets start with the basics, your range. Your own range will eventually be second nature to you, especially after using the same weapon for a long time. However, a few key points:
1. Your maximum range is when your arm is at full extension parallel to the ground
2. You can increase your range by moving your center of mass towards the target. This includes lowering it for legs shots.
3. The position of your shoulders affects range. In line with the target brings you closer. Squared up loses range.
4. Footwork is vital to controlling range. Stepping towards the target during a swing adds a substantial amount of range.
With a static target (guinea pig), from your normal stance, hold your weapon strait out towards them. Step forward until you can just barely touch. Now point your sword down towards the leg. No where close to being in range. Now bend your knees, shift your weight forward, and twist your shoulder towards the leg. Notice how much extra range you just gained, without even stepping in.
Once we know are own effective range, lets look at our opponent. Start with the target's torso just out of reach with your weapon extended. Now have them do the same. Notice
that either of you are in range of each other's arm. This should be a good reminder of how your opponent's range changes based on what targets you present. Also illustrates the danger inherent in swinging at targets outside of your range.
Now of course, weapon choices vary greatly from person to person and place to place. You and your opponent might have a drastic difference in range. Lets look at the ranges each of you can be at:
1. Both out of range and safe by a few steps. (like the maneuver phase of a line fight)
2. Long range: neither are in range, but two steps gets you in target.
3. Mid-long range: easily within a step of being in range, both are now at risk of being rushed. (stalemate phase of a line battle)
4a. Mid Range: You have a longer reach and are the only one that can strike.
4b. Mid range: your opponent has a longer reach and is the only one that can strike.
5. Short range: Both are in range to swing freely.
6. Too close: both are so close that neither can swing effectively. (maybe wrap shots)
There are a couple more, but they are specific to polearms and other large weapons, more on that later. As we can see, 4b is a terrible place to be. Spot 5 can be pretty rough too, especially against a skilled opponent. Foot work must be used to get yourself out of bad spots and into a more favorable position. In the case of 4b, you have to move through the range to strike, or constantly move back.
I'll talk a little more about moving in and out of range in a future post, but this is largely the foundation I learned as a new guy. It is at least a good place to start if you haven't considered much about range before. If nothing else, Kenny would be happy to teach you through negative reinforcement using his longsword.
Thursday, July 3, 2014
Theory Thursday: Defensive Footwork
This is a more detailed write up about footwork. I am trying to build a stronger guide, using this post as a starting point. Please comment if you think there is something missing or that needs clarification. For now, I'm just looking at a person's center and where it moves, the feet will follow. If someone needs more specific "put your feet like this" direction, I can eventually make some graphics for it.
Today's topic is using footwork on the defensive, when your opponent is being aggressive. We'll start using a simple duel between two right handed sword and board users as an example, with the fighter in red being the aggressor. I'm not too worried about the specifics of where your feet are at each step, only your general stance (shield or sword foot forward). If you move from point A to B, your feet should stay as close to one stance or the other as possible and get there in a comfortable way. If you feel you are crossing your legs or moving awkwardly, try pushing off of the other foot or pivoting. You need to be balanced between your feet at each step.
To start, lets look at our options if they simply advance directly at us, a very common approach. There are four basic directions we can move, and four angles combining them.
Basic Directions
We can choose to move forward (yes, towards the guy rushing you). This is probably a set up for a bash and/or wrap shot. This is the most aggressive of the defensive strategies, and the least likely to add any measure of safety from the opponent's attack. If a bash is the intention, shifting your weight forward after sliding towards them will offer a little more power to the bash. With luck, the bash could cause them to stop their attack or even be knocked down. If you managed to merely come to point blank range without much success, a backblock can prevent a number of attacks, especially if they don't have a stabbing weapon.
The opposite end of the spectrum is to move backward in line with their rush. This helps to keep the distance originally preferred, but if they are rushing, back peddling is slower than their run. That means they can still close the gap. This does, however, buy time and potentially cause them to be in range of someone else during a line fight, much like a staggered gap.
The remaining two basic directions are sideways. The difference between sword side and shield side vary a good deal in their advantages and disadvantages. Moving directly to the sword side greatly reduces the available targets your opponent has, usually leaving only the shield side leg vulnerable. There is also an opportunity for a wrap shot to come in around the shield. These two open targets are shared by you and your opponent. If your stance is usually shield foot forward, this is a good time to switch stances, pushing off with your shield leg and then sliding it around behind as you move over.
Moving directly to the shield side opens up the target's sword arm and torso to attack, but also exposes you to the same attacks. If you fight sword foot forward, this leaves you extra vulnerable. It is perfectly reasonable to switch stances to shield foot forward, rather than rotating your torso. This cuts off some of the angle, but keeps your torso free to rotate into strikes.
Basic Angles
The four basic directions combine to make four distinct angles. Each one offers a unique advantage or opportunity. More often than not, the angles offer better positions than the basic directions.
The two forward angles offer an aggressive counter to the rush, without directly running into the opponent. In a larger fight, you might even be able to turn the tables and end up behind their line. Moving this way towards your shield side greatly opens up both fighters. Just like moving sideways, switching to shield foot forward is recommended during the move. A lot of fighters are tempted to throw a high cross towards their opponent's chest when moving this way, but it exaggerates the already considerable risk to yourself. Stick to safer shots like the short cross, or the slot shot as you move across their guard. Target the arm or shoulder.
Moving forward to the sword side makes you and your opponent quite vulnerable to wrap shots and leg sweeps. Switching to sword foot forward does help a little, but the opportunities still exist. Because you've cut off a large number of angles that could reach your torso, you can let your shield favor over a little towards your opponent to reduce their chance to throw wrap shots. Throwing a wrap shot during the move will usually result in it landing on target as both of your complete your move.
The two backward angles can drastically change the fight. Moving back and to the sword side is the most defensive move. It takes you the furthest away from their sword. Depending on which shots they decide to throw, this move may make it easier to sneak in a slot shot or a leg sweep during the move. On the line, it also causes them to angle their sword side towards your team, leaving them exposed to attack.
Moving back and shield side is less defensive, but gives you a better angle on their sword arm. Switching to shield foot forward is recommended, but not as necessary as other shield side moves. Short crosses are probably the safest shot to throw here. Your team gains less of an advantage to the opponent's rotation here, because they will usually have to swing all the way across themselves to target them, leaving the friendly fighter exposed.
Conclusions
So, which move is the best one? I generally prefer to back away towards my sword side, depending on the surroundings. However, your opponent's nature, shot selection, and skill all come into play deciding which one to use. Fighting against an opponent who is great at wraps, I might chose to back away to the shield side. Against an opponent with a weaker guard or less skill, I might be aggressive and go forward to my shield side. It is really a matter of what you need to do to accomplish your goal. If staying on the defensive is a must, using any of the backwards moves is a good idea. If your team needs you to make something happen, being aggressive might be necessary, forcing you to move forwards.
All of this so far assumes one move. In the future, I'll look a little more at chaining moves together into more of an actual plan. For now though, try practicing with a friend, taking turns playing the aggressor. After/as they advance, try moving in one of the eight directions. Pause and take stock of what has changed in the fight. Where are your feet? What is your shield blocking? What targets can you see? What did you gain? These questions are what you should be asking yourself each time your practice.
Today's topic is using footwork on the defensive, when your opponent is being aggressive. We'll start using a simple duel between two right handed sword and board users as an example, with the fighter in red being the aggressor. I'm not too worried about the specifics of where your feet are at each step, only your general stance (shield or sword foot forward). If you move from point A to B, your feet should stay as close to one stance or the other as possible and get there in a comfortable way. If you feel you are crossing your legs or moving awkwardly, try pushing off of the other foot or pivoting. You need to be balanced between your feet at each step.
To start, lets look at our options if they simply advance directly at us, a very common approach. There are four basic directions we can move, and four angles combining them.
 |
| The basic layout for our example. Actual sword and shield position, as well as the feet themselves, are beyond today's topic. This is just enough to give you the rough idea visually. |
Basic Directions
We can choose to move forward (yes, towards the guy rushing you). This is probably a set up for a bash and/or wrap shot. This is the most aggressive of the defensive strategies, and the least likely to add any measure of safety from the opponent's attack. If a bash is the intention, shifting your weight forward after sliding towards them will offer a little more power to the bash. With luck, the bash could cause them to stop their attack or even be knocked down. If you managed to merely come to point blank range without much success, a backblock can prevent a number of attacks, especially if they don't have a stabbing weapon.
The opposite end of the spectrum is to move backward in line with their rush. This helps to keep the distance originally preferred, but if they are rushing, back peddling is slower than their run. That means they can still close the gap. This does, however, buy time and potentially cause them to be in range of someone else during a line fight, much like a staggered gap.
The remaining two basic directions are sideways. The difference between sword side and shield side vary a good deal in their advantages and disadvantages. Moving directly to the sword side greatly reduces the available targets your opponent has, usually leaving only the shield side leg vulnerable. There is also an opportunity for a wrap shot to come in around the shield. These two open targets are shared by you and your opponent. If your stance is usually shield foot forward, this is a good time to switch stances, pushing off with your shield leg and then sliding it around behind as you move over.
Moving directly to the shield side opens up the target's sword arm and torso to attack, but also exposes you to the same attacks. If you fight sword foot forward, this leaves you extra vulnerable. It is perfectly reasonable to switch stances to shield foot forward, rather than rotating your torso. This cuts off some of the angle, but keeps your torso free to rotate into strikes.
Basic Angles
The four basic directions combine to make four distinct angles. Each one offers a unique advantage or opportunity. More often than not, the angles offer better positions than the basic directions.
The two forward angles offer an aggressive counter to the rush, without directly running into the opponent. In a larger fight, you might even be able to turn the tables and end up behind their line. Moving this way towards your shield side greatly opens up both fighters. Just like moving sideways, switching to shield foot forward is recommended during the move. A lot of fighters are tempted to throw a high cross towards their opponent's chest when moving this way, but it exaggerates the already considerable risk to yourself. Stick to safer shots like the short cross, or the slot shot as you move across their guard. Target the arm or shoulder.
Moving forward to the sword side makes you and your opponent quite vulnerable to wrap shots and leg sweeps. Switching to sword foot forward does help a little, but the opportunities still exist. Because you've cut off a large number of angles that could reach your torso, you can let your shield favor over a little towards your opponent to reduce their chance to throw wrap shots. Throwing a wrap shot during the move will usually result in it landing on target as both of your complete your move.
The two backward angles can drastically change the fight. Moving back and to the sword side is the most defensive move. It takes you the furthest away from their sword. Depending on which shots they decide to throw, this move may make it easier to sneak in a slot shot or a leg sweep during the move. On the line, it also causes them to angle their sword side towards your team, leaving them exposed to attack.
Moving back and shield side is less defensive, but gives you a better angle on their sword arm. Switching to shield foot forward is recommended, but not as necessary as other shield side moves. Short crosses are probably the safest shot to throw here. Your team gains less of an advantage to the opponent's rotation here, because they will usually have to swing all the way across themselves to target them, leaving the friendly fighter exposed.
 |
| Staring position in the middle, each frame gives you a look at where you and your opponent are likely to end up after their one move towards you. |
Conclusions
So, which move is the best one? I generally prefer to back away towards my sword side, depending on the surroundings. However, your opponent's nature, shot selection, and skill all come into play deciding which one to use. Fighting against an opponent who is great at wraps, I might chose to back away to the shield side. Against an opponent with a weaker guard or less skill, I might be aggressive and go forward to my shield side. It is really a matter of what you need to do to accomplish your goal. If staying on the defensive is a must, using any of the backwards moves is a good idea. If your team needs you to make something happen, being aggressive might be necessary, forcing you to move forwards.
All of this so far assumes one move. In the future, I'll look a little more at chaining moves together into more of an actual plan. For now though, try practicing with a friend, taking turns playing the aggressor. After/as they advance, try moving in one of the eight directions. Pause and take stock of what has changed in the fight. Where are your feet? What is your shield blocking? What targets can you see? What did you gain? These questions are what you should be asking yourself each time your practice.
Tuesday, June 17, 2014
The Basics of Footwork
This is a quick guide to footwork and range control. I'm sure I could go into greater detail, but this covers most of the basics. Feel free to comment if I've missed something.
Footwork is a difficult topic to teach, especially to new fighters. They have far more pressing matters on their mind, like keeping a good guard and swinging. Most new guys, therefore, end up with a quick and dirty intro to footwork that amounts to mostly how to position their feet in static defense. This ends up being a lesson in stance, more than footwork.
Proper footwork is far more about dynamic scenarios, ie. how to move and position yourself and your opponent to gain an advantage in the fight. Any time you advance or withdraw from the enemy, you are using footwork to engage in the "range game". By shifting around your opponent along a diagonal, you change the angle of both your defense and theirs. These two concepts combine to make footwork one of the most essential keys to both attack and defense.
Stance
Most lessons start with the basics of stance, positioning your feet about shoulder width apart with one foot more forward than the other. The goal is to give you a good, solid base while angling much of your body away from the enemy, reducing the area they can target. Which foot is forward is more of a matter of preference and situation. Shield foot forward, combined with good shield work, can prove extremely good at fighting on the defensive from multiple angles. It draws your shield to cover more of your sword side and can be particularly effective at cutting off certain angles to protect against spears. Sword foot forward offers a little faster attack because your sword will be closer to the target, but requires greater skill in sword blocking and counters to be at its most effective. This is why sword foot forward is often used by a majority of experienced fighters for most situations.
Now, of course, shifting your weight to your rear leg allows you to move your front leg quickly. This is usually advised when fighting in a more static situation, like in the middle of a line fight. However, as we begin to move and shift in a more dynamic situation, it is far better to keep your weight more evenly distributed. You need to be able to shift directions quickly. Each time you place too much weight on one foot or another, you lock it in place for a moment. Skilled opponents will wait for you to plant your foot before they swing at your leg, making it nearly impossible for you to dodge.
When advancing in the opponents range, slide in your current stance unless you have a reason to change position. If you step normally, you will end up changing the angle of your defense and planting one foot as you walk. Changing your stance while in the opponents range has a similar effect. If your opponent's sword is free, they'll likely be able to take your leg with ease in either case.
Range
"The range game" is a pretty broad topic, but there are three main ranges you should concern yourself with when it comes to footwork. The worst range to be in is when your opponent is the only one close enough to swing. This makes you extremely vulnerable. Ideally, you need to either be out of their range or in your own range. Note, that the if you can swing, your opponent may also be in range.
While approaching the enemy, try to maintain your defenses until you have something to swing at. There is little use in having solid footwork if you completely forget to keep your shield up. If you have a shorter weapon than your opponent, you will have to weather a few swings on your way in.
Now, if you are trying to maintain a certain range, you need to match and counter your opponent in footwork in order to keep them where you want them to be. If they step towards you to reduce range to their preference, slide back. If they try to retreat out of your preferred range, slide up. Again, maintain your defense either way.
Most people learn to advance and retreat in line with their opponent. By adding in angles to the mix, you can gain even greater advantage in range. If you step back and to the side away from their sword, you drastically increase the range from their weapon with the same amount of motion. On the advance, you can advance towards their shield side, angling past them, in order to keep your shield in the way of most of their attacks. Note that two fighters with the same handedness cause angles to offer the same benefits and drawbacks to the other fighter. If you advance towards the opponent's sword arm, you open up an angle for both of you to attack.
When it comes to targeting different areas, footwork can change what is open to you. Bending at the knees lowers your arm, bringing your sword closer to low targets. Stepping and bending your knees can change from being completely out of range to being able to target a leg easily. Much the same can be said for advancing at an angle, bringing you closer to strike at an arm.
One trick some veteran fighters use is to advance in a spiral, slowly closing the range as they circle. This allows them to sometimes catch an opponent off guard when they fail to notice that the range has changed. This is most commonly used in a one on one fight or when an experienced fighter is outnumbered.
Rushing
When pushing in on an opponent, part of your goal is to force them to take a static defense. If you can manage to get their feet planted, their legs become easy targets and they have little they can do to out maneuver you. Part of how I manage to do this is to change the angle of my advance, starting with one side, then changing to push past them on the other side. This does leave one of my legs somewhat vulnerable as I have to shift my weight from one direction to the other, but most opponents will focus on keeping their defenses since I am coming into range to swing.
When shifting to the opposite angle, the opponent is likely to have planted their defense to the first angle, and now have to shift their weight to rotate the opposite way. This makes it very difficult for them to get their feet and torso repositioned. As I shift to the new direction, I often change stance such that my outside leg is the lead leg. This forces my defenses to angle towards the opponent as I move past.
Footwork is a difficult topic to teach, especially to new fighters. They have far more pressing matters on their mind, like keeping a good guard and swinging. Most new guys, therefore, end up with a quick and dirty intro to footwork that amounts to mostly how to position their feet in static defense. This ends up being a lesson in stance, more than footwork.
Proper footwork is far more about dynamic scenarios, ie. how to move and position yourself and your opponent to gain an advantage in the fight. Any time you advance or withdraw from the enemy, you are using footwork to engage in the "range game". By shifting around your opponent along a diagonal, you change the angle of both your defense and theirs. These two concepts combine to make footwork one of the most essential keys to both attack and defense.
Stance
Most lessons start with the basics of stance, positioning your feet about shoulder width apart with one foot more forward than the other. The goal is to give you a good, solid base while angling much of your body away from the enemy, reducing the area they can target. Which foot is forward is more of a matter of preference and situation. Shield foot forward, combined with good shield work, can prove extremely good at fighting on the defensive from multiple angles. It draws your shield to cover more of your sword side and can be particularly effective at cutting off certain angles to protect against spears. Sword foot forward offers a little faster attack because your sword will be closer to the target, but requires greater skill in sword blocking and counters to be at its most effective. This is why sword foot forward is often used by a majority of experienced fighters for most situations.
Now, of course, shifting your weight to your rear leg allows you to move your front leg quickly. This is usually advised when fighting in a more static situation, like in the middle of a line fight. However, as we begin to move and shift in a more dynamic situation, it is far better to keep your weight more evenly distributed. You need to be able to shift directions quickly. Each time you place too much weight on one foot or another, you lock it in place for a moment. Skilled opponents will wait for you to plant your foot before they swing at your leg, making it nearly impossible for you to dodge.
When advancing in the opponents range, slide in your current stance unless you have a reason to change position. If you step normally, you will end up changing the angle of your defense and planting one foot as you walk. Changing your stance while in the opponents range has a similar effect. If your opponent's sword is free, they'll likely be able to take your leg with ease in either case.
Range
"The range game" is a pretty broad topic, but there are three main ranges you should concern yourself with when it comes to footwork. The worst range to be in is when your opponent is the only one close enough to swing. This makes you extremely vulnerable. Ideally, you need to either be out of their range or in your own range. Note, that the if you can swing, your opponent may also be in range.
While approaching the enemy, try to maintain your defenses until you have something to swing at. There is little use in having solid footwork if you completely forget to keep your shield up. If you have a shorter weapon than your opponent, you will have to weather a few swings on your way in.
Now, if you are trying to maintain a certain range, you need to match and counter your opponent in footwork in order to keep them where you want them to be. If they step towards you to reduce range to their preference, slide back. If they try to retreat out of your preferred range, slide up. Again, maintain your defense either way.
Most people learn to advance and retreat in line with their opponent. By adding in angles to the mix, you can gain even greater advantage in range. If you step back and to the side away from their sword, you drastically increase the range from their weapon with the same amount of motion. On the advance, you can advance towards their shield side, angling past them, in order to keep your shield in the way of most of their attacks. Note that two fighters with the same handedness cause angles to offer the same benefits and drawbacks to the other fighter. If you advance towards the opponent's sword arm, you open up an angle for both of you to attack.
When it comes to targeting different areas, footwork can change what is open to you. Bending at the knees lowers your arm, bringing your sword closer to low targets. Stepping and bending your knees can change from being completely out of range to being able to target a leg easily. Much the same can be said for advancing at an angle, bringing you closer to strike at an arm.
One trick some veteran fighters use is to advance in a spiral, slowly closing the range as they circle. This allows them to sometimes catch an opponent off guard when they fail to notice that the range has changed. This is most commonly used in a one on one fight or when an experienced fighter is outnumbered.
Rushing
When pushing in on an opponent, part of your goal is to force them to take a static defense. If you can manage to get their feet planted, their legs become easy targets and they have little they can do to out maneuver you. Part of how I manage to do this is to change the angle of my advance, starting with one side, then changing to push past them on the other side. This does leave one of my legs somewhat vulnerable as I have to shift my weight from one direction to the other, but most opponents will focus on keeping their defenses since I am coming into range to swing.
When shifting to the opposite angle, the opponent is likely to have planted their defense to the first angle, and now have to shift their weight to rotate the opposite way. This makes it very difficult for them to get their feet and torso repositioned. As I shift to the new direction, I often change stance such that my outside leg is the lead leg. This forces my defenses to angle towards the opponent as I move past.
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